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Seasonal Eating

Courgettes, Marrows and the August Glut

The difference between a courgette and a marrow is roughly seventy-two hours — which tells you everything about how this plant rewards attention.


One plant, many harvests

Courgettes, courgette flowers and marrows are the same thing at different points in their life. The fruit is picked small and firm for the table; left alone a few more days it swells into something larger and progressively more watery; left longer still, you have a marrow. This is not a failure of the plant — it is simply putting energy into a seed vessel rather than tender flesh. The home grower's August tradition of leaving bags of courgettes on neighbours' doorsteps is less a gesture of generosity than an admission that the garden got away from them.

The implication for buying is straightforward: smaller means firmer, denser flesh and more concentrated flavour. A courgette the length of a hand is at or near its best. By the time it approaches the size of a forearm, the flesh has started to loosen and the skin to thicken. That is not ruin — the larger fruit has its own uses — but it is a different ingredient.

The flowers are the real prize

Before the fruit forms, the plant produces flowers. Both male and female flowers appear, but it is the male — which sits on a thin stem rather than on a developing fruit — that cooks prize most. The female flower, left alone, becomes the courgette itself, so picking it comes at a cost. Male flowers will not fruit regardless, making them the generous harvest.

Courgette flowers are among the most perishable things in the British food calendar. They close as the day heats up, begin to wilt within hours of picking, and will not survive the logistics of a supermarket supply chain. This is why they appear almost exclusively at farmers' markets, in farm-shop fridges, or in vegetable box schemes — and why, if you spot them, buying and eating them the same day is the only real option. Their season overlaps with the broader courgette window, from high summer through to the first frosts, though the flower harvest is heaviest in the earlier weeks before the plant puts its main energy into fruiting.

The season itself

British courgettes run from midsummer until the first hard frosts cut the plants back, typically sometime in October, though the exact timing shifts year to year and varies between the south of England and the north of Scotland. Outdoor-grown courgettes are at their most prolific in August, which is precisely when the glut peaks. A single healthy plant, given a warm summer, can produce more fruit than a household can reasonably eat in a week.

This abundance shows most clearly at farm shops and smaller greengrocers, where display bins fill up mid-season. Box-scheme subscribers often receive courgettes for several weeks running. This is the season working as it should — concentrated availability followed by a clean end, rather than the year-round supply of imported courgettes that supermarkets maintain regardless of the calendar.

Preserving the glut

The traditions that grew around surplus courgettes and marrows are practical ones. Chutney is the most common: marrow chutney has a long history in British kitchens, the vegetable's watery flesh responding well to long cooking with vinegar, sugar and spice into something sharp and jammy that keeps through winter. Like most chutneys, it improves with a few months in the jar, the flavours knitting together in ways that fresh-made chutney cannot match. Our piece on chutney maturation covers the science behind this resting period and is worth reading before you seal your first batch of the season.

Courgette pickle is a sharper, quicker proposition — thin slices or batons held in an acidulated brine, sometimes with dill or mustard seed, eaten within weeks rather than months. It is brighter and more immediate than chutney, and a useful way to handle a sudden surplus without committing to a full afternoon's cooking.

Then there is marrow rum, an old British country tradition that tends to surprise those who have not encountered it. A marrow is hollowed out, packed with dark sugar and sealed; over several weeks the sugar draws liquid from the flesh and ferments it in place, then the result is drained off and aged. The process is more curio than mainstream method, but it speaks to how seriously past generations took not wasting the harvest.

Buying well

If you are buying rather than growing, seek out shorter, narrower courgettes with a firm feel and a skin that is still slightly glossy rather than dull or yielding. Yellow courgettes follow the same rules as green ones — the colour is a variety distinction, not a quality signal. Round courgettes, which resemble pale green tennis balls, are a different cultivar, slightly nuttier in flavour and more robust to heat.

Marrows are worth buying deliberately rather than treating as a second-rate courgette. Their texture suits slow cooking, and their mild flavour takes on whatever it is cooked with readily. The prejudice against them is largely a prejudice against courgettes accidentally allowed to grow too large — those can indeed be watery and dull. A marrow grown specifically to maturity is a different thing, and the glut season is the best time to find one that has been properly looked after.

Worth trying

A few makers we rate, sold through independent sellers on Yumbles.

Risotto Mix with Courgettes & Saffron

Risotto Mix with Courgettes & Saffron

Vorrei

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Flavour Bombs - 3 Flavour Vegan Bundle

Flavour Bombs - 3 Flavour Vegan Bundle

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Boozy Preserves Selection – Gift Box 4x42g

Boozy Preserves Selection – Gift Box 4x42g

The Wooden Spoon Preserving Company

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