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Seasonal Eating

Redcurrants and Whitecurrants in the British Summer

Glassy, sharp and briefly in season, redcurrants and whitecurrants have shaped British preserving and meat cookery for centuries.


A July fruit, briefly

The window is narrow. Redcurrants hang in translucent strings — botanically called strigs — through July, catching the light like dropped garnets. Whitecurrants are simply the same species without the anthocyanin that gives the red its colour: pale gold, almost luminous. Both are gone before August properly arrives.

Most people who grew up in Britain before the supermarket era would have had a bush or two at the bottom of the garden. That cottage-garden familiarity has largely faded. The fruit is fiddly to pick, brief in season and too sharp for most people to eat raw by the handful. What has kept it in the food culture is cooking it — specifically, setting it into jelly.

Why the jelly bag matters

Redcurrants are unusually rich in pectin, the natural setting agent found in fruit cell walls. This is what makes them so useful in the kitchen and why the traditional method — pressing cooked fruit through a jelly bag and boiling the strained juice with sugar — works so cleanly. No added pectin needed, no uncertainty about the set. The fruit does the work.

The resulting jelly is sharp, clear and deeply coloured. Whitecurrant jelly is paler and gentler, with a honeyed quality that makes it feel almost floral beside its red counterpart. Both keep well, and both have long been used not as sweet spreads but as savoury condiments — which is where they still make most sense.

Redcurrants are also valued for helping lower-pectin fruits set. A handful added to a strawberry or cherry jam is an old trick, invisible in the finished jar but doing quiet structural work throughout.

The pairing with meat

Redcurrant jelly alongside lamb is one of those combinations old enough to feel structural — part of the grammar of British cooking rather than a fashion. The sharpness cuts fat and balances the sweetness that lamb develops as it roasts. The same logic applies to game: venison, grouse, pheasant. Rich, dark meat and bright redcurrant acidity have been paired on British tables for centuries.

Cumberland sauce extends this into something more elaborate. The base is redcurrant jelly, sharpened with citrus juice and zest, deepened with port, and sometimes warmed with mustard or spice. The result is less a condiment and more a sauce in its own right — complex enough to serve alongside a whole ham or a haunch of venison, and firmly associated with the cold table and occasions where something is carved and passed around. The best versions have a glossy consistency, a dark ruby colour and a balance of sharp, sweet and winey that no single flavour dominates.

Where to find them now

Pick-your-own farms are the most reliable source during the season. Once you have the knack — running your fingers down the strig strips the whole cluster — the fruit is quick to gather, and buying by weight at a PYO is often considerably cheaper than finding it pre-packaged. Farm shops in fruit-growing areas, particularly in Kent, the Vale of Evesham and parts of Scotland, tend to stock both varieties when available, though calling ahead is sensible given how short the season is.

Whitecurrants are rarer and worth a specific search. Because the colour is so unexpected — most people associate currants with deep red or black — they can seem almost exotic, though they are no more difficult to grow or use than the red. A whitecurrant jelly served with cold poultry or a mild hard cheese is a markedly different experience from the sharper red version.

Outside the season, good redcurrant jelly from a preserves maker is widely available in farm shops and independent food shops year-round — one of those pantry staples that earns its place through quiet usefulness rather than novelty.

Worth trying

A few makers we rate, sold through independent sellers on Yumbles.

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